Saturday, April 28, 2007

Is “Healthy Soda” an Oxymoron?


Soda is a multi-billion dollar industry in this country, but despite huge sales, its image has suffered in recent years. Diet offerings have been plagued by artificial sweetener woes—from myths of brain tumors to some legitimate health concerns. And the versions sweetened with high-fructose corn syrup have fared no better. In a report issued in 1998, the nutrition advocacy group Center for Science in the Public Interest famously dubbed soda “liquid candy.” Subsequently, protests by parents and nutrition advocates have lobbied to get soda machines banned from high-school cafeterias, and fast-food chains like McDonald’s have expanded their drink options to include healthier choices like bottled water or milk.
So what’s a soda manufacturer to do in order to stay in the game? Coke and Pepsi seem to think the answer lies in adding vitamins to soft drinks—turning your fizzy afternoon indulgence into a “health” food. This month, Coke is set to launch Diet Coke Plus, a zero-calorie cola with a sprinkling of nutrients mixed in. According to the company, one 8-ounce serving of the soda will provide 15 percent of the daily value (DV) of niacin, vitamins B6 and B12, and 10 percent of the DV for zinc and magnesium. And in the fall, Pepsi will roll out Tava, a line of zero-calorie sparkling beverages in flavors like Tropical Berry Blend and Passion Fruit Lime. Each 8-ounce serving of Tava will deliver 10 percent of the DV of vitamins B3, B6 and E.
“The biggest thing in every industry right now is health and wellness,” says Lynn Dornblaser, director of Mintel Custom Solutions, a market research firm. “Even companies that never had that as a primary focus are now trying to adapt their product lines to fit what’s important today.”
But can a soda ever really make the leap from junk food to health food? “Probably it’s just marketing,” says Kristine Clark, director of sports nutrition at Penn State University and a registered dietitian. The small amounts of nutrients in such sodas probably aren’t enough to make much difference in the average American diet. “Let’s hope no one is using these products to meet their nutritional needs,” says Clark.
The ever-growing category of natural sodas has been promoting health claims for several years, and has lured drinkers away from more conventional carbonated beverages or turned the health conscious into first-time soda drinkers. Brands like Izze, Santa Cruz Organics and Blue Sky contain real fruit juice, organic sugar as well as, in some case, vitamins. “The success of natural sodas—and especially of fortified bottled waters—may have spurred the more traditional companies to move in a similar direction,” says Dornblaser.
While trend-watchers speculate on whether or not consumers will swallow the health claims of Coke’s and Pepsi’s new sodas, nutritionists remain sanguine. “If you’re drinking these because of their nutrients, that’s not a valid reason, but if you’re going to be drinking soda anyway, you’re at least getting something extra,” says Clark. “Just don’t kid yourself that soda is a health drink.”

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